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Ford 351 Cleveland Engines: How to Build for Max Performance George Reid. 4.6 out of 5 stars 97. There were several variants of the 351 Cleveland (351C) engine, but there were only two M-block variants, the 351M and 400. From 1971 to 1982, Ford manufactured millions of M-block engines for use in mid-sized cars, full-sized cars, luxury cars, and light and medium-duty trucks. WINDSOR AND CLEVELAND. Early to Late Model Windsor V8.Cleveland V8.EB ED EF EL AU V8 Models Covered.Rebuild - Recondioning - Repair. INCLUDES CLEVELAND 351.Windsor-Cleveland V8 History. Service Manual Covers the Topics below. Ford 351 Cleveland V8 Engine The 351 Cleveland was introduced in 1969 as Ford's new performance car engine and was built through the end of the 1974 model year. It incorporated elements learned on the 385 big-block series and the Boss 302, particularly the poly-angle combustion chambers with canted valves and the thin-wall casting technology. Dec 26, 2014 Ford 351 cleveland 393 stroker reconditioned motor - Duration: 7:44. Jamie Norup 258,660 views. How to clean a driveway. Start to finish - Duration: 21:12.
keen — Jul 19th, 1996
Q: I have a 1969 Mercury Cougar (VIN 9F91M539283) which I purchased in June of 1969 in Riverside California. I am often asked what kind of engine is installed in the car. Some say it is a Cleveland and some say it is an Ontario High performance engine. T.W., Belfair
A: To the eternal bane of automotive parts people everywhere, Ford has made not one, but three 351 cubic inch engines: the Cleveland, the Windsor (Ontario), and the Modified. After consulting parts catalogs, repair manuals, and my colleagues on the Internet, I've learned the following:
The Windsor (351W) was introduced in 1969 and stayed in use until 1991. The Cleveland (351C) was first used in 1970 on some early-production 1971 models, and was last produced in 1974, when it was replaced with the Modified (351M) model. The first number on the VIN code on your Cougar designates it a 1969 model year, and the last letter, 'M,' designates it a four-barrel carbureted engine.
There are several external differences that can help to distinguish between the 351W engine and the 351C and M engines: The 351W has three bolts attaching the valve covers on the exhaust manifold side; the 351C,M has four. The 351W has the timing cover bolted to the block. The timing cover on the 351C,M is cast as part of the block. On the 351W the thermostat housing is attached to the intake manifold, on the 351C,M it's attached to the front cover. The fuel pump attaching bolts are mounted in the horizontal plane on the 351W and the in vertical plane on the 351C,M.
The catalogs and books tell part of the story, for the rest, here's practical wisdom from my friends on the Internet:
'According to your VIN you have a 351-4V engine Windsor with 290 horsepower. If the car has a functional hood scoop it's the Eliminator Model.' Fishing master world tour wii iso.
'The Cleveland motor had very large intake/exhaust ports and valves. The Windsor motors couldn't come close. It was almost like having big block heads on a small block motor.'
'Cleveland motors supposedly had more power than Windsors, but you could usually expect a Windsor to last a lot longer.'
'The reason Cleveland is preferred over Windsor is because it is supposed to be a stronger engine block, mostly in the main web area of the block. I've built a lot of Windsors and Clevelands, and see no real difference in reliability. The only time I recommend a Cleveland is for a REAL high performance engine (450+ horse power).'
'The 351W is a basic 302-type engine. The 351C engine got all the hype, but what we race today is the basic W or a combination of the two. The W is a better engine for long-lived low RPM power. It needs proper preparation to race, and, as it has the better torque curve on the low end, it is not a high rpm engine. By the way, the best street plug today in 18mm is the Champion RF9YC. The original equipment plug, the Motorcraft BRF32, is no longer being made. I was told a BRF42 would work. I tried it it's too hot for anything more than going to get lunch!'
(Chip Keen is an ASA-certified Master Automotive Technician and the owner of Hansville Repair. Readers may send questions to: Car Forum, The Sun, P.O. Box 259, Bremerton, Wash, 98337, or e-mail [email protected].)
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My brother has gotten to the point of rebuilding the engine of his 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1. The engine is a 1970 351 Cleveland that was built on Aug 10, 1969. That’s a pretty long time ago.
I gave Jeff a call yesterday and he told me about what he was doing. I got excited, because it reminded me of the days when I was cool…rebuilding engines of my own. I am partial to Chevy small blocks, but I guess Fords are ok too. I remember every detail of rebuilding all my engines. It is quite interesting, because you get to see how everything works and how different parts have different effects on performance.
So, here is what he told me. He pulled the engine a while back. He recently took the heads off to measure the bore of the cylinders. This is important because if the bore of the cylinders is too large, that means the cylinders are worn and they need to be bored out. You hear this kind of talk a lot among 16 year olds that ride 2-stroke dirt bikes. They are always talking about “boring out” their engines. I know this, because I was one of them (16 year old, that is). Remember, if measuring the diameter of the cylinders, make sure you take the measurement more than a half-inch down, inside the cylinders. The top half-inch of the cylinder doesn’t get touched by the piston rings…the part that wears the cylinder.
Anyway, there is another important measurement that Jeff needed to take, and that was the diameter of the bottom of the cylinder compared to the top of the same cylinder. This is a measurement to see if the cylinders are “tapered,” meaning, one part of the cylinder is worn more than the other. Since this is kind of a tough measurement to take, Jeff brought the engine down to his local machine shop. He is getting a bunch of work done to the engine down there. Here is a list of what they are going to do:
– Measure the cylinder diameters (like I described above)
– If ok, (which they are…it was already done) hone the cylinders the proper way for the type of rings that will be installed
– Clean the outside of the engine block and heads
– Flush the inside of the engine block and install new freeze out plugs
– Install new camshaft bearings
– Give the cylinder heads a valve job
– Install hardened valve seats to allow for unleaded gasoline
– If ok, (which they are…it was already done) hone the cylinders the proper way for the type of rings that will be installed
– Clean the outside of the engine block and heads
– Flush the inside of the engine block and install new freeze out plugs
– Install new camshaft bearings
– Give the cylinder heads a valve job
– Install hardened valve seats to allow for unleaded gasoline
I am probably missing something. I forget a lot in these later years of life. In any event, this is all the stuff that requires professional attention. Jeff can take care of the other stuff, like installing the camshaft, the timing set, etc… All that takes in a steady hand and a torque wrench. I am sure the engine will come out very nicely. Jeff is currently looking for genuine Ford colored engine paint, to get the color just right. This is important with an engine like this because it is going to be restored to original specs. With a “matching numbers” car like this, you can’t make mistakes like painting the engine the wrong color. Ldap query tutorial.
Here are some “before” photos of the engine:
Jeff is also sending the carburetor out to Pony Carburetors for a total rebuild. Apparently, their rebuild techniques take a lot of natural issues out of the carburetor. I am sure there will be a post dedicated to that alone.